| WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE The insights of: K. HAYES, DVM, MS |
| page 1 of 2 |
Do you think of your horse as a member of your family, sort of an overgrown, four-legged kid? You’re not alone. Horses bring
out the nurturer in many of us. We hug on them. Bathe and brush them. Give them treats. Include them in family pictures and
videos. We create cozy, box stall homes for them, color-coordinate their belongings, and even bundle them up when it’s cold. In
short. we want to believe our horses want and need the same things we do, and that in return for our devotion, they love us, trust
us, and would never hurt us. One of the most unfortunate truisms in having horses is that at some point in your and your horse’s
relationship, you will be injured. The injury can be a small one (lucky you), or it can be the worst thing that has ever happened to
you, but be assured – you will get hurt. It’s a fact that your equine compadre outweighs you by hundreds, if not thousands of
pounds, and can kill you with a single well-placed kick. If you treat your horse as though he’s an oversized extension of you, you
lose sight of that danger, and of a fundamental fact: he’s a horse. That means he’s wired to behave and react like a horse-not a
human. When you forget this basic fact, you can find yourself on the losing side of a war between worlds. It is the single most
significant source of conflict and training frustrations.
To aid in your understanding of this, I’d like to touch on five fundamental differences between your world and that of your horse.
I’ll cover social hierarchy, vision, habitat needs, response to danger, and food related behavior. We will look at how your horse is
genetically programmed to operate, how you operate, the opportunities for conflict, and how to manage that conflict. With this
information, you can begin to understand what makes your horse tick, and be better able to predict (and hopefully avoid) the equine
responses that can put you at risk of experiencing mental or physical conflict.
DIFFERENCE # 1
SOCIAL POSITION
Your horse’s world: He’s a herd animal; hierarchy within the herd is critical to survival. In equine society, position in the herd
determines what a horse eats and when. Dominant horses get first dibs on everything, from the first drink of water to the best
resting spot. A subordinate horse can’t enter a dominate horse’s personal space unless invited; to invade that space invites an
aggressive rebuttal. Because it’s to a horse’s benefit to move up the hierarchical ladder, many will test their higher herdmates in
efforts to gain in position. The same powerful instincts drive your domesticated horse. If dominance/subordination hasn’t yet been
determined, a kick, bite, or strike will settle the matter quickly. Once position has been determined, a look, pinned ears, head swing,
or threat of a kick usually will quell further attempts at space invasion.
Your world: Probably the only other large, four-legged animal you’ve related to on a companion level is your dog. But Fido’s a
pack animal - subordinate to his alpha, or top dog. In his eyes, you’re that dog. When he wags his tail and nuzzles you, he’s
signaling affection and subordination. When your horse nickers to you, then nuzzles you, you may get the same warm and fuzzy
feeling you do from your dog. And that’s where you start to go wrong in relating to your equine partner.
Opportunity for conflict: A nuzzle from your dog is a sign of subordination. From your horse, it’s a space invasion, and it
means he doesn’t consider you to be the “boss hoss”. Just as you might mistakenly view your horse as a human in a fur suit, he
views you as a fellow herd member. The way he looks at it, you are either dominant over him, or subordinate to him. If he doesn’
t regard you as the dominate member in your herd of two, he’ll treat you as a subordinate in one of many potentially dangerous
ways. These include nipping, kicking, and/or striking, pushing and/or rubbing you with his head, walking into or over you as you
handle or lead him, showing aggression toward you at feeding, grooming, or saddling time, (i.e. pinned ears, swishing tail, and/or
threat to kick), and generally resisting your every request.
How to avoid conflict: He treats you like a horse, therefore, respond in kind. This type of behavior can very easily escalate,
therefore, if he crowds into, or pushes you, immediately make a strong and clear correction towards the invading body part of your
horse. This can be in the form of the use of the end of your lead rope, a crop, your hand, etc. Note: Your horse’s attention span is
such that you have an approximate 3 second window from the time of the “crime” in which to address and correct his actions.
Not a lot of time, is it? After that, efforts at punishment will do nothing but confuse him. Let the punishment fit the crime; if your
horse has made a gentle invasion, such as a head nudge, use a firm smack or slap on the side of the neck. If it’s an aggressive
invasion, such as a shove or body slam, combine a firm smack, or stronger correction - such as the use of the end of your lead, a
crop, dressage whip, etc. (no 2x4’s). In addition, you can verbally reprimand him with a shout, just as a horse would kick and squeal
at another horse. This isn’t cruelty; it’s body language that horses speak and understand among themselves. If you are experiencing
these kinds of problems, you should always have the proper tools with which to make corrections. Carry that lead rope or crop
with you; don’t wish you had something with you – make sure you do.
If your horse shows ears-back aggression towards you at feeding time-don’t feed him. You’d only reward his bad behavior.
Instead, wait until he greets you with a ears-up expression, then feed him-rewarding his desirable behavior.
DIFFERENCE # 2
VISION
Your horse’s world: He has mostly monocular vision, meaning he has an eye on each side of his head. Each eye works
independently, sending images to separate sides of his brain as they constantly search for predators lying in wait. As a result, your
horse’s peripheral vision is excellent. Only when he’s directed both eyes on an object in front of him do his eyes focus together for
binocular vision, sending a single image to his brain. His long distance vision is also excellent, as he’s an animal designed to watch the
horizon on the open prairie. Up-close items are blurry; he’s slow to focus on them and must move his head to do so, therefore, this
makes the object appear to move. A horse has oversized retinas that magnify object such that they appear 50 percent bigger than
they are; equine retinas also make small movements look b-i-g. These vision facts, coupled with his inability to focus instantly
prevent your horse from making “logical” decisions. Instead, they provide him with a key survival tool, visual cues that scream
“predator alert,” inciting him to react instantly and instinctually-without stopping to think-so he can put some distance between
himself and the threat. (We’ll deal more with the how’s and why’s of his reactions in a minute.)
Your world: Your vision is binocular. You have (or had, before you turned 40) keen, close up vision with good depth perception,
and the ability to focus instantly. Your peripheral vision is limited, however.
Opportunity for conflict: Your fast-focus vision, coupled with your ability to use logic, gives you an almost instant ability to
identify a harmless object as “no big deal.” Your horse’s eyesight can make that same object appear life threatening. (That’s why
blowing plastic bag makes you think “litter,” and him reach to “lion!”). Furthermore, his superior peripheral vision allows him to
spot “horse-eating monsters” before you do. He’s wired to spook and run at the first glimmer of a threat. Then from a safe
distance, he can use his excellent long-distance vision to evaluate the scary thing. If you’re caught off guard, you could be injured.
At the very least, you’ll probably be spooked by his behavior, and when you recover, maybe a bit irritated by it.
How to avoid conflict: Stay alert when working around your horse. Try to think ahead (sometimes impossible) in order to be
better prepared for reacting quickly. Use equipment that is in good condition. When tying or cross tying a horse, you’ll find that
some people favor the use of quick-release snaps, and some folks prefer using a rope halter and lead. Always, always, always carry
a sharp pocket knife with you. That way, should your horse see something that causes a spook/panic reflex, you can minimize risk
of injury to you both. (More about this later.)
Always stay out of his flight path to avoid being run over accidentally. When working on your horse’s legs, squat-never kneel-
beside them, so you can get out of harm’s way quickly, should he spook or bolt. When riding, be aware of your surroundings and
keep your horse’s attention focused on you. The more he’s focused on you, the easier it will be on both of you when you encounter
things that he considers scary.
DIFFERENCE # 3
HABITAT
Your horse’s world: Horses evolved to live in wide-open spaces, and feel safest with an uninterrupted view of the horizon; the
better to see any threats by using his keen, long-distance vision. Such a lifestyle enables him to flee danger, without barriers to
obstruct his flight path. Designed as a nomadic grazer, you horse isn’t by nature territorial, as long as he has the room to mosey and
eat. However, if his space is limited (e.g., he’s confined), he’ll protect his domain.
Your world: You’re a house dweller; four walls and a roof spell c-o-m-f-o-r-t and security. You’re also territorial; you border
your premises with fences and landscaping not only to define property boundaries, but also because physical barriers are seen as
protection against external threats. (Hence the popularity of gated-guarded communities.)
Opportunity for conflict: Your natural tendency is to house your horse in human-type habitats. Stalls, fences, aisleways-the very
structures that help you define and protect your “territory”-work against your horse’s nature, and his visual acuity. Small, enclosed
spaces limit his eyesight, force a solitary existence on an animal designed to live in a herd, and remove his key survival mechanism:
flight. You don’t understand why he’s so spooky, but turn and look at things from the perspective of your horse; he’s living in
conditions that are the complete opposite of his genetic design, therefore, in an effort to escape threats, he may run over you,
through your fences, or into that tractor you have parked in the aisleway.
Constant confinement can also lead to such vices as cribbing, stall walking, and weaving, wood chewing, pawing, stall kicking, ear
pinning, and many other undesirable actions. These can develop as a direct result of restricting your horse’s genetic drive to walk
and graze.
How to avoid conflict: To reduce the danger of your horse panicking and injuring himself, keep stable clutter to a minimum.
Design (or redesign) his living quarters with his needs in mind. If your horse is stalled for the majority of the day, provide as big a
stall as possible (14-by 14-foot or larger is ideal). If possible, have an attached run, so he can move around, and has the opportunity
to scan the horizon.
Consider providing partially screened or pipe barriers between stalls, so he can see his herdmates. (small, fully enclosed stalls will
cause low level stress in your horse and encourage development of vices.) Make turnout a part of his daily routine. Your horse is a
social animal, so think about turning him out with a horse friend. Provide plenty of grass hay throughout the day, so he can
“graze.” When possible, turn him out full-time on pasture---preferably with other horses with which he can socialize. Install horse-
safe fencing, such as the high-tech fences designed to flex upon impact. Electrify some part of all fences. Doing so will reduce your
horse’s urge to challenge the barrier, thus reducing his risk for injury.
DIFFERENCE # 4
RESPONSE TO DANGER
Your horse’s world: He’s genetically programmed to operate on the basis that survival means successful retreat from predators
that want to eat him. In prey-animal behavior lingo, that’s your horse’s flight response. When possible, he’ll spook or spin away
from a perceived threat, gallop to what he perceives to be a safe distance, then turn and use his long-distance vision to evaluate the
situation. The spook-and-run behavior you dread is a primal equine response to danger. You may learn to ride through it, or
regain control immediately after it, or desensitize your horse to common stimuli, but you’ll never erase it.
Your world: Rather than immediately running from a threat, you’ll turn toward it, use your keen vision and logic to evaluate it,
then decide whether you should flee or stand your ground.
Opportunity for conflict: You turn toward a sudden noise or movement; your horse spooks away from it. You can see clearly,
evaluate, and logically react to sights and noises in your environment; your horse can’t. The result : While riding, you could end up
getting thrown by a sudden spook (and never know what spooked your horse!), or any of a dozen “who-knows-what-happened”
scenarios. In addition, if your horse is tied or otherwise confined (say, in a box stall or trailer) when his flight response is triggered, he’
ll behave in one of two ways; he’ll resort to a fight response, lashing out with a front or rear hoof against the object of his fear, or he’
ll struggle blindly against his restraint/confinement in an effort to escape the threat. Warning: when this powerful ”fight or flight”
instinct takes over, your horse is oblivious to anyone or anything around him including self-inflicted pain. If you get in his way, he’ll
hurt you, too. This is why a panicked horse will tear off his hoof in an attempt to escape entanglement in a wire fence, flip over
backward in crossties, or attempt to lunge to freedom through that tiny window in the front of your two horse trailer, and, well,
you get the picture.
How to avoid conflict: Discipline yourself to stay out of your horse’s flight path (directly in front of him), out of striking range
(about 5-6 feet in front of either front leg), and out of his kick zone (about 8 feet behind and to the side of your horse’s
hindquarters; you either need to be right next to his hindquarters, or father away than 8 feet).
Avoid falling into the “I trust my horse” trap. There’s a saying that goes, “It’s the good horses that’ll hurt you.” That’s because we
let our guard down around those horses we trust, and guess what--we forget they’re horses. All it takes is one such lapse for good
ol’ Dobbin to inflict some serious damage.
When approaching any horse from the rear, be sure to announce your presence before you enter the kick zone. A dozing horse can
be startled awake by a sudden movement or noise, and remember, his up-close vision is poor. His response may be to kick
(defend himself) first, and check out the ‘threat’ later. Get in the practice of keeping your horse’s attention focused on you whenever
you ride or lead him. By doing so, you’ll not only increase your control, but also will be forced to keep your attention on him, thus
reducing your response time, should a spook occur. A bonus: when his mind is on you rather than on his environment, you’ll also
minimize his opportunities to search for-and react to-perceived threats in the area. Never enter a confined area, such as a trailer or
box stall, in an attempt to calm a frenzied horse. Only when he’s calm, and you can approach without endangering yourself, should
you do so.
Since each emergency situation is different, you might prefer using quick-release (or panic) snaps whenever you tie your horse, but in
any case, always carry a sharp pocket knife with you. Your ability to instantly release him from the “trap” (if you can do so safely)
can help dissipate his panic, thus minimizing risk of injury to either one of you.
Desensitize your horse to stimuli common to your daily environment and to those to which you’ll be traveling (such as horse
shows). You’ll help your horse learn to control his fears, thus minimizing the risk of injury to himself, you, and bystanders.
out the nurturer in many of us. We hug on them. Bathe and brush them. Give them treats. Include them in family pictures and
videos. We create cozy, box stall homes for them, color-coordinate their belongings, and even bundle them up when it’s cold. In
short. we want to believe our horses want and need the same things we do, and that in return for our devotion, they love us, trust
us, and would never hurt us. One of the most unfortunate truisms in having horses is that at some point in your and your horse’s
relationship, you will be injured. The injury can be a small one (lucky you), or it can be the worst thing that has ever happened to
you, but be assured – you will get hurt. It’s a fact that your equine compadre outweighs you by hundreds, if not thousands of
pounds, and can kill you with a single well-placed kick. If you treat your horse as though he’s an oversized extension of you, you
lose sight of that danger, and of a fundamental fact: he’s a horse. That means he’s wired to behave and react like a horse-not a
human. When you forget this basic fact, you can find yourself on the losing side of a war between worlds. It is the single most
significant source of conflict and training frustrations.
To aid in your understanding of this, I’d like to touch on five fundamental differences between your world and that of your horse.
I’ll cover social hierarchy, vision, habitat needs, response to danger, and food related behavior. We will look at how your horse is
genetically programmed to operate, how you operate, the opportunities for conflict, and how to manage that conflict. With this
information, you can begin to understand what makes your horse tick, and be better able to predict (and hopefully avoid) the equine
responses that can put you at risk of experiencing mental or physical conflict.
DIFFERENCE # 1
SOCIAL POSITION
Your horse’s world: He’s a herd animal; hierarchy within the herd is critical to survival. In equine society, position in the herd
determines what a horse eats and when. Dominant horses get first dibs on everything, from the first drink of water to the best
resting spot. A subordinate horse can’t enter a dominate horse’s personal space unless invited; to invade that space invites an
aggressive rebuttal. Because it’s to a horse’s benefit to move up the hierarchical ladder, many will test their higher herdmates in
efforts to gain in position. The same powerful instincts drive your domesticated horse. If dominance/subordination hasn’t yet been
determined, a kick, bite, or strike will settle the matter quickly. Once position has been determined, a look, pinned ears, head swing,
or threat of a kick usually will quell further attempts at space invasion.
Your world: Probably the only other large, four-legged animal you’ve related to on a companion level is your dog. But Fido’s a
pack animal - subordinate to his alpha, or top dog. In his eyes, you’re that dog. When he wags his tail and nuzzles you, he’s
signaling affection and subordination. When your horse nickers to you, then nuzzles you, you may get the same warm and fuzzy
feeling you do from your dog. And that’s where you start to go wrong in relating to your equine partner.
Opportunity for conflict: A nuzzle from your dog is a sign of subordination. From your horse, it’s a space invasion, and it
means he doesn’t consider you to be the “boss hoss”. Just as you might mistakenly view your horse as a human in a fur suit, he
views you as a fellow herd member. The way he looks at it, you are either dominant over him, or subordinate to him. If he doesn’
t regard you as the dominate member in your herd of two, he’ll treat you as a subordinate in one of many potentially dangerous
ways. These include nipping, kicking, and/or striking, pushing and/or rubbing you with his head, walking into or over you as you
handle or lead him, showing aggression toward you at feeding, grooming, or saddling time, (i.e. pinned ears, swishing tail, and/or
threat to kick), and generally resisting your every request.
How to avoid conflict: He treats you like a horse, therefore, respond in kind. This type of behavior can very easily escalate,
therefore, if he crowds into, or pushes you, immediately make a strong and clear correction towards the invading body part of your
horse. This can be in the form of the use of the end of your lead rope, a crop, your hand, etc. Note: Your horse’s attention span is
such that you have an approximate 3 second window from the time of the “crime” in which to address and correct his actions.
Not a lot of time, is it? After that, efforts at punishment will do nothing but confuse him. Let the punishment fit the crime; if your
horse has made a gentle invasion, such as a head nudge, use a firm smack or slap on the side of the neck. If it’s an aggressive
invasion, such as a shove or body slam, combine a firm smack, or stronger correction - such as the use of the end of your lead, a
crop, dressage whip, etc. (no 2x4’s). In addition, you can verbally reprimand him with a shout, just as a horse would kick and squeal
at another horse. This isn’t cruelty; it’s body language that horses speak and understand among themselves. If you are experiencing
these kinds of problems, you should always have the proper tools with which to make corrections. Carry that lead rope or crop
with you; don’t wish you had something with you – make sure you do.
If your horse shows ears-back aggression towards you at feeding time-don’t feed him. You’d only reward his bad behavior.
Instead, wait until he greets you with a ears-up expression, then feed him-rewarding his desirable behavior.
DIFFERENCE # 2
VISION
Your horse’s world: He has mostly monocular vision, meaning he has an eye on each side of his head. Each eye works
independently, sending images to separate sides of his brain as they constantly search for predators lying in wait. As a result, your
horse’s peripheral vision is excellent. Only when he’s directed both eyes on an object in front of him do his eyes focus together for
binocular vision, sending a single image to his brain. His long distance vision is also excellent, as he’s an animal designed to watch the
horizon on the open prairie. Up-close items are blurry; he’s slow to focus on them and must move his head to do so, therefore, this
makes the object appear to move. A horse has oversized retinas that magnify object such that they appear 50 percent bigger than
they are; equine retinas also make small movements look b-i-g. These vision facts, coupled with his inability to focus instantly
prevent your horse from making “logical” decisions. Instead, they provide him with a key survival tool, visual cues that scream
“predator alert,” inciting him to react instantly and instinctually-without stopping to think-so he can put some distance between
himself and the threat. (We’ll deal more with the how’s and why’s of his reactions in a minute.)
Your world: Your vision is binocular. You have (or had, before you turned 40) keen, close up vision with good depth perception,
and the ability to focus instantly. Your peripheral vision is limited, however.
Opportunity for conflict: Your fast-focus vision, coupled with your ability to use logic, gives you an almost instant ability to
identify a harmless object as “no big deal.” Your horse’s eyesight can make that same object appear life threatening. (That’s why
blowing plastic bag makes you think “litter,” and him reach to “lion!”). Furthermore, his superior peripheral vision allows him to
spot “horse-eating monsters” before you do. He’s wired to spook and run at the first glimmer of a threat. Then from a safe
distance, he can use his excellent long-distance vision to evaluate the scary thing. If you’re caught off guard, you could be injured.
At the very least, you’ll probably be spooked by his behavior, and when you recover, maybe a bit irritated by it.
How to avoid conflict: Stay alert when working around your horse. Try to think ahead (sometimes impossible) in order to be
better prepared for reacting quickly. Use equipment that is in good condition. When tying or cross tying a horse, you’ll find that
some people favor the use of quick-release snaps, and some folks prefer using a rope halter and lead. Always, always, always carry
a sharp pocket knife with you. That way, should your horse see something that causes a spook/panic reflex, you can minimize risk
of injury to you both. (More about this later.)
Always stay out of his flight path to avoid being run over accidentally. When working on your horse’s legs, squat-never kneel-
beside them, so you can get out of harm’s way quickly, should he spook or bolt. When riding, be aware of your surroundings and
keep your horse’s attention focused on you. The more he’s focused on you, the easier it will be on both of you when you encounter
things that he considers scary.
DIFFERENCE # 3
HABITAT
Your horse’s world: Horses evolved to live in wide-open spaces, and feel safest with an uninterrupted view of the horizon; the
better to see any threats by using his keen, long-distance vision. Such a lifestyle enables him to flee danger, without barriers to
obstruct his flight path. Designed as a nomadic grazer, you horse isn’t by nature territorial, as long as he has the room to mosey and
eat. However, if his space is limited (e.g., he’s confined), he’ll protect his domain.
Your world: You’re a house dweller; four walls and a roof spell c-o-m-f-o-r-t and security. You’re also territorial; you border
your premises with fences and landscaping not only to define property boundaries, but also because physical barriers are seen as
protection against external threats. (Hence the popularity of gated-guarded communities.)
Opportunity for conflict: Your natural tendency is to house your horse in human-type habitats. Stalls, fences, aisleways-the very
structures that help you define and protect your “territory”-work against your horse’s nature, and his visual acuity. Small, enclosed
spaces limit his eyesight, force a solitary existence on an animal designed to live in a herd, and remove his key survival mechanism:
flight. You don’t understand why he’s so spooky, but turn and look at things from the perspective of your horse; he’s living in
conditions that are the complete opposite of his genetic design, therefore, in an effort to escape threats, he may run over you,
through your fences, or into that tractor you have parked in the aisleway.
Constant confinement can also lead to such vices as cribbing, stall walking, and weaving, wood chewing, pawing, stall kicking, ear
pinning, and many other undesirable actions. These can develop as a direct result of restricting your horse’s genetic drive to walk
and graze.
How to avoid conflict: To reduce the danger of your horse panicking and injuring himself, keep stable clutter to a minimum.
Design (or redesign) his living quarters with his needs in mind. If your horse is stalled for the majority of the day, provide as big a
stall as possible (14-by 14-foot or larger is ideal). If possible, have an attached run, so he can move around, and has the opportunity
to scan the horizon.
Consider providing partially screened or pipe barriers between stalls, so he can see his herdmates. (small, fully enclosed stalls will
cause low level stress in your horse and encourage development of vices.) Make turnout a part of his daily routine. Your horse is a
social animal, so think about turning him out with a horse friend. Provide plenty of grass hay throughout the day, so he can
“graze.” When possible, turn him out full-time on pasture---preferably with other horses with which he can socialize. Install horse-
safe fencing, such as the high-tech fences designed to flex upon impact. Electrify some part of all fences. Doing so will reduce your
horse’s urge to challenge the barrier, thus reducing his risk for injury.
DIFFERENCE # 4
RESPONSE TO DANGER
Your horse’s world: He’s genetically programmed to operate on the basis that survival means successful retreat from predators
that want to eat him. In prey-animal behavior lingo, that’s your horse’s flight response. When possible, he’ll spook or spin away
from a perceived threat, gallop to what he perceives to be a safe distance, then turn and use his long-distance vision to evaluate the
situation. The spook-and-run behavior you dread is a primal equine response to danger. You may learn to ride through it, or
regain control immediately after it, or desensitize your horse to common stimuli, but you’ll never erase it.
Your world: Rather than immediately running from a threat, you’ll turn toward it, use your keen vision and logic to evaluate it,
then decide whether you should flee or stand your ground.
Opportunity for conflict: You turn toward a sudden noise or movement; your horse spooks away from it. You can see clearly,
evaluate, and logically react to sights and noises in your environment; your horse can’t. The result : While riding, you could end up
getting thrown by a sudden spook (and never know what spooked your horse!), or any of a dozen “who-knows-what-happened”
scenarios. In addition, if your horse is tied or otherwise confined (say, in a box stall or trailer) when his flight response is triggered, he’
ll behave in one of two ways; he’ll resort to a fight response, lashing out with a front or rear hoof against the object of his fear, or he’
ll struggle blindly against his restraint/confinement in an effort to escape the threat. Warning: when this powerful ”fight or flight”
instinct takes over, your horse is oblivious to anyone or anything around him including self-inflicted pain. If you get in his way, he’ll
hurt you, too. This is why a panicked horse will tear off his hoof in an attempt to escape entanglement in a wire fence, flip over
backward in crossties, or attempt to lunge to freedom through that tiny window in the front of your two horse trailer, and, well,
you get the picture.
How to avoid conflict: Discipline yourself to stay out of your horse’s flight path (directly in front of him), out of striking range
(about 5-6 feet in front of either front leg), and out of his kick zone (about 8 feet behind and to the side of your horse’s
hindquarters; you either need to be right next to his hindquarters, or father away than 8 feet).
Avoid falling into the “I trust my horse” trap. There’s a saying that goes, “It’s the good horses that’ll hurt you.” That’s because we
let our guard down around those horses we trust, and guess what--we forget they’re horses. All it takes is one such lapse for good
ol’ Dobbin to inflict some serious damage.
When approaching any horse from the rear, be sure to announce your presence before you enter the kick zone. A dozing horse can
be startled awake by a sudden movement or noise, and remember, his up-close vision is poor. His response may be to kick
(defend himself) first, and check out the ‘threat’ later. Get in the practice of keeping your horse’s attention focused on you whenever
you ride or lead him. By doing so, you’ll not only increase your control, but also will be forced to keep your attention on him, thus
reducing your response time, should a spook occur. A bonus: when his mind is on you rather than on his environment, you’ll also
minimize his opportunities to search for-and react to-perceived threats in the area. Never enter a confined area, such as a trailer or
box stall, in an attempt to calm a frenzied horse. Only when he’s calm, and you can approach without endangering yourself, should
you do so.
Since each emergency situation is different, you might prefer using quick-release (or panic) snaps whenever you tie your horse, but in
any case, always carry a sharp pocket knife with you. Your ability to instantly release him from the “trap” (if you can do so safely)
can help dissipate his panic, thus minimizing risk of injury to either one of you.
Desensitize your horse to stimuli common to your daily environment and to those to which you’ll be traveling (such as horse
shows). You’ll help your horse learn to control his fears, thus minimizing the risk of injury to himself, you, and bystanders.
| WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE The insights of: K. HAYES, DVM, MS |
